12/3/2023 0 Comments Patina color on car![]() ![]() We were lucky that the truck’s old, dark metallic grey looked black once sanded, but if you’re painting on a bright colour, a few full-cover coats of black base coat to begin with will prevent the colour from showing up once you start sanding. All of these coats were done with DuPont Centari Economy Base Coat. Four different layers of paint were used here to simulate the effects of patina - a silver for bare steel, a red oxide primer for rust, a black for blackened steel, and the actual body colour - in this case, a two-tone cream and white. ![]() At this stage, you will need to figure out just how much patina you want to give the body, as that will influence how much you need to spray with the first few coats. Then wipe the surface dry with the other cloth. ![]() Wet one cloth with wax and grease remover. If you want to do inside the door jambs, like the example here, make sure you sand them, too.īefore any spraying, wipe the surface down one last time using the two-cloth technique, and avoid touching any of the surface with your bare hands. In this case, the owner decided not do any panelwork and to leave the few dents the shell had, but if you do want perfect panels, this is the time to get the bog out. If you do go through to bare steel, you can etch prime these spots later. Avoid going bare in any spots, but don’t worry too much, as it is likely to happen on edges etc., depending on the quality of the paint job - it was pretty thin on this truck. Simply wipe the panel as you go to check. The key is to make sure there is no gloss surface left. Don’t try to remove all the paint you only need to scuff the surface so the chemicals can bond together. The idea here is to prepare the surface so the new paint has something to which to adhere. Ideally, you want the soft pad between the sander and the sandpaper. Here, a paint shop staple, the DA system, was used as these keep dust to a minimum and make short work of the panels. This can be done by hand with a soft block, or with an orbital sander. The next stage is sanding back the entire body with 240–500 grit sandpaper. Any trim and badges on the body will also need removing. If you go too far with it, it will look less realistic and that may detract from the finish.īegin by stripping off the chrome and other parts, such as door handles, lights, and wing mirrors. However, as this truck is only 37 years old, the level of patina would be far less. ![]() If you’re doing this on a ’30s hot rod then, in theory, that shell has seen nearly 100 years of the elements, so the level of patina and the level of rust you can apply are basically limitless. That’s something you need to take into account. While there are many different techniques on how to achieve a faux patina, some using spray techniques and other chemical reactions, GT’s technique will give us a period-correct patina looking as authentic as possible for a 1980s workhorse. Any paint supplier, and most paint and panel shops, should also be able to handle this process. Luckily, the factory cream colour was still on the interior panels, and was dropped off to be colour matched at Resene Automotive & Light Industrial’s branch in Auckland. With the objective of taking the truck back to a factory two-tone look, faux patina seemed like the logical choice, as the body is not in perfect condition and spending $10K to get it there was not in the owner’s budget. It had acquired a few small dings over the years, and the cheap 2K paint job was in need of some love. The build goal with this vehicle was as a tow vehicle for a race car, so it was always going to get used to haul parts and spend its life in service. GT Refinishers was roped in to help bring this ’79 GMC Sierra workshop hack up to scratch, as the company has developed a faux patina technique that is somewhat authentic looking. But if you’ve purchased a vehicle that’s already had a respray, like this one, it may be worth considering faux patina. If you’re lucky enough to find an unmolested shell that’s spent its life getting worn down by the harsh Arizona sun, and has not rusted out, simply spray it with a sealer and you’re sorted. This is where patina or faux patina comes into play. The man-hours that go into perfecting those gaps and hammering and filing each panel, before layers and layers of perfectly glossy paint are applied, is a process that offers no shortcuts and no half measures if you are after a long-lasting, quality finish.īut what if you’re not a fan of shiny, and you’re a little rough around the edges, but still want to give your vehicle a makeover? Your options here are limited, as cutting corners on a respray can mean all sorts of issues down the track, not to mention it looking cheap and nasty. It’s often one of the most expensive aspects of the build and the task that takes the longest to complete. The finishing touch to any project is without a doubt the paint job. ![]()
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